Your Guide To Easily Build A Golf Simulator Screen Frame.
By Jay Hubbard 7-20-2024
Are you eager to create a DIY golf simulator at home, but unsure where to start? Worry not! This comprehensive guide will lead you through the process of building a sturdy frame for your golf simulator and attaching a screen. With these step-by-step instructions, you'll be well on your way to creating a realistic and immersive golfing experience in the comfort of your own home.
This is part two of a three-part article series.
1. Part one, how to measure for your golf simulator screen and pads.
2. Part two, how to build a golf simulator frame and attach a screen.
3. Last, how to build a golf simulator enclosure.
First you need to be familiar with key terms. Every golf simulator has a screen (1), enclosure (2), launch monitor (3), hitting mat (4), gap pads that fill the gaps between the screen and the frame (5), frame pads that protect the frame and the golfer from ricochet (6) and a simulator frame and projector (Not shown below).
Measuring for A Golf Simulator Frame:
- To ensure accurate dimensions for the screen frame measure the distance between adjacent walls.
- Take note of any obstructions such as light fixtures, air vents, or electrical outlets that may affect the placement of the screen or frame.
- Consider the height of the room and the desired viewing angle when determining the optimal placement of the screen.
- Double-check all measurements to ensure accuracy before cutting or installing any materials.
- Use a level to confirm that the frame is installed straight and aligned properly with the walls and ceiling.
- Allow for additional clearance space around the frame to accommodate protruding elements or trim.
- Take into account any future upgrades or modifications that may impact the placement or size of the frame.
Some of the top simulator retailers suggest building your golf simulator frame using Electrical Metal Tube (EMT) or Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes (PVC). We couldn’t disagree with that approach more. Metal pipes dent, bend and don’t provide much stability and structure. What’s more, the ball will ricochet dangerously off of them. Likewise, PVC pipes can shatter and you risk broken plastic flying everywhere. Plus, when you use pipes, attaching the screen and padding is difficult and adjusting your screen is even harder. At aceindoorgolf.com, one of the industry’s largest golf simulators manufacturers and retailers, we recommend using 2x4 lumber to build your screen frame. The result will be a durable, stable, and safe frame that will last for years to come.
Needed Parts
• 2x4s for Frame
• Slotted Steel Angle Irons
• Heavy Duty Cable Ties (1 pack)
• 10” Stretch Cords/Bungees (1 pack)
• Ace HiQ ScreenTM (1)
• Ace Gap Pads Sides and Top
• Ace Frame Pads Side and Top
• 25 Yards of Sticky Back Hook Velcro (1)
• 5/16” x 4” Structural Screws (1 box)
• 5/16” x 4” x 1/4” Toggle Bolts (2-3 Packs)
• 1" x 5/16" Roofing Screws (1 box)
Additional Parts Depending on Wall And Ceiling Configuration:
• 5/16” x 5” Structural Screws (1 pack)
• 5/16” x 3 1/8” Structural Screws (1 pack)
• 5/16” x 3” Tapcon Flat Head Concrete Screw (8)
• 10” Heavy Duty L-Brackets (3-4)
• 2” Zinc L-Bracket (6)
• 2” Steel Zinc-Plated Double Wide Mending Plate (2)
Tools
• Hammer Drill
• Shop Vac
• Hammer
• ¼” Concrete Drill Bit
• Wire Brush
• 5/16” screwdriver bit
• Level
• 25’ Tape Measure
• Chalk Line
• Hand Held Carpet Seam Rolling Tool
• 48” Aluminum Straight Edge for Cutting
• Box cutters and blades
Illustrated Golf Simulator Frame Cutaway Parts
BUILD A GOLF SIMULATOR FRAME
Do you want a DIY dream golf simulator but don’t know how to build it. This guide will walk you through the steps for building a golf simulator frame and attaching the screen. This the second article in a three-part article series.
- Article one covers how to accurately measure for your golf simulator screen and pads.
- This story provides detailed instructions on constructing your golf simulator frame and attaching the screen.
- Finally, the third article teaches you how to building a golf simulator enclosure to complete your setup.
A golf simulator screen may withstand impact speeds up to 220 MPH, so the frame that holds the screen needs to be anchored to the floor, side walls, and ceiling if possible. In some simulators, you may not have sidewalls, ceilings, or both to anchor your frame but you can still make it work anchoring to the floor and rear wall. Below you will find frame anchoring instructions for these four options:
1. Anchor the frame into side walls and ceiling
2. Anchor the frame into the ceiling and floor
3. Anchor into two side walls and no ceiling
4. Anchor into the floor and rear wall only
The steps below will walk you through building a 2x4 frame anchored into a ceiling, floor, sidewalls, or rear wall.
Option 1: Anchor the Frame In The Side Walls And Ceiling
- To minimize potential damage from ball impacts, install the screen frame 10 inches away from the rear wall. Measure 10” from the rear wall on each side wall at the floor and ceiling.
- Calculate the distance from floor to ceiling on both side walls, less 1.5” for the Top 2x4 that will attach to the ceiling. Measure and cut the Side Frames per your measurement and position them on your marks 10” from the rear wall. Make sure the 2x4s are level and screw them into the side wall with a 5/16” x 4” structural screws or 5/16” x 4” x 1/4” Toggle Bolt every 12 to 16 inches.
- Measure the distance on the ceiling from one side frame to the other and cut a 2x4 for the Top Frame. Slide the Top Frame Plate into place so it rests on the two Side Frames. You may need to tap it into place with a hammer. Screw the Top Frame into the ceiling using 5/16” x 4” Structural Screws or 5/16”x 4” x 1/4” Toggle Bolts (if there are no studs to anchor into) every 12 to 16 inches.
Option 2: Anchor Frame In The Ceiling And Floor
At each side wall on the ceiling measure 10” from the rear wall and mark it. Run a Chalk line from each side wall on the ceiling.
- Measure the length of the room and then measure and cut a 2x4 to match for the Top Frame. Screw the 2x4 into the ceiling on the Chalk line leaving 10” between it and the rear wall. (Use 5/16” x 4” Structural Screws or” x 3” x 1/4” Toggle Bolts every 12 to 16 inches).
- For the Side Frames, measure the distance from the floor to each end of the Top Frame and cut a 2x4 per each measurement and place it in position under the Top Frame making the outer edges flush. You may need to tap them in with a hammer. Screw the Side Frame into the L-Bracket attached to the Top Frame using 1” x 1/4” screws. Repeat this step on the other Side Frame.
- Place an L-Bracket on the floor in the inside edge of each Side Frame. Mark the holes from the L Bracket on the concrete floor and on the Side Frame with a pencil.
- Take a 1/4” concrete drill bit, wrap tape 3” above the tip of the bit to mark a 3” drill depth. Use a Hammer Drill on Hammer mode to drill two 3” holes where marked into the concrete floor.
- Using a vacuum and a wire brush, remove the debris and thread a 3” Tapcon Flat Head concrete screw through the 2” L-Bracket and slowly screw it into the concrete, making sure the screw does not turn too fast as the base material can be stripped. Do not over-tighten. Repeat this step for the opposite side.
- Screw 1” x 5/16” roofing screws into the holes of the 2” L-Bracket on each of the Side Frames.
- To attach the Top and Side Frames: Take a 2” Double-Wide Mending Plate and screw it into the top, outside-end of the Top and Side Frame with 1” x 5/16” screws. Repeat this step on the other Side Frame. Or, screw a 2” Zinc L-Bracket flush on the inside with the Top and Side Frame and attach it with 1” x 1/4” screws. The L-Bracket should be positioned to leave room for the Angle irons that will attach to the front of the entire Frame.
Option 3: Anchor The Frame In One Or Two Side Walls And The Floor
- To minimize potential damage from ball impacts, install the screen frame 10 inches away from the rear wall. Measure 10” from the rear wall on the wall(s) at the floor and ceiling.
- Use the steps in first article on measuring your frame and screen to calculate the distance from floor to ceiling on the side wall(s). Cut the Side Frames per your measurement and position them on your marks 10” from the rear wall. Make sure the 2x4 is level and screw it into the side wall with a 5/16” x 4” structural screws or 5/16” x 4” x 1/4” Toggle Bolts every 12 to 16 inches. If you have only one side wall to anchor the frame, use Option 2 above, step 4-8 to anchor the Side Frame without a wall.
- Place the Top Frame on top of the Side Frames and make the outer edges flush. Screw two 5/16” x 4” structural screws through the Top Frame and into the Side Frame to hold the frame together.
- Not show in the photo above, the Top Frame should be attached to the rear wall with three or four 10” 2x4s for support, one on each end and one in the middle. Measure and cut three Support 2x4s and place them between the Top Frame and the rear wall and screw two 5/16 x 5” screws through the front of the Top Frame and into the Support 2x4. Place a 10” Heavy Duty L-Bracket under each Support 2x4 and screw it into the wall with 5/16 x 3” screws or Toggle Bolts. Then screw 1” x 1/4” into the L-Bracket and the Support 2x4. Repeat in the middle and on the other Side Frame.
Need A Photo
- To minimize potential damage from ball impacts, install the screen frame 10 inches away from the rear wall. Measure ten inches from the rear wall on each side wall at the floor and ceiling.
- Measure 10” from the rear wall on the floor and mark where the two Side Frames will be located. Now, using the width and height generated by the Aspect calculator (See article on Measuring For Your Golf Simulator Screen and Frame Pads). Measure and cut a 2x4 for the Top Frame and the two Side Frames. Put the Side Frames and the Top Frame together, on the ground, so the outer top edges are flush and screw two 5/16 x 4” structural screws into the ends of Top Frame and into the top of each Side Frame. Measure and cut five or six 10” long Support 2x4s that will be used to attach the simulator frame to the rear wall. One for the top and bottom of each side and one or two to attach the middle of the Top Frame to the rear wall.
- Have two people raise the frame and hold it in position, and a third person places a 10” Support 2x4 between the frame and the rear wall on the outer edges and in the middle and sync two 5/16”x 5” screws through the front of the Top Frame and into the Support 2x4s. Place a 10” Heavy Duty L-Bracket underneath one of the Support 2x4s and screw the L-Bracket into the wall with 5/16” x 3” screws or Toggle Bolts. Repeat this step for each of the five Support 2x4.
- Use Option 2 above, step 4-8 to anchor the Side Frames into the floor.
- The frame should now be well anchored.
B. SCREW ANGLE IRONS INTO FRAME
- Install Steel Slotted Angle irons on the front edge of the interior frame. Attach Angle irons all the way around the Frame by screwing them into the studs with 1 x 5/16” roofing screws with a rubber washer every 12 inches. The 1.5” tall side of the Angle iron should be on the outer edge of the 2x4. You will thread the 10” Stretch cords through the Ace HiQ Screen grommets and attach the hooks to the Angle iron slots. (See the two Angle Iron pictures below).
- Peel the backing off the 2” Sticky Hook Velcro and attach it to the entire front of the 2x4 frame (See the picture below).
- Screw 1” x 5/16” roofing screws with a rubber washer into the Velcro every 12 inches around the frame to permanently secure the Velcro. The Hook Velcro will be used to attach Ace Carpet/Gap Pads to the frame and to the screen to eliminate gaps and prevent balls from getting through. (See picture below)
- At this point we recommend building your enclosure by either hanging golf simulator curtains or attaching golf simulator tiles to your wall(s). Tackling this step, protects your screen from getting dirty or damaged during installation. See article three on Building A Golf Simulator Enclosure.
- The bottom of the screen has a pocket. Set the Shock Cord pocket (See picture below) on the ground flat and centered between the frame. Place your ladder leg on top of the Shock Cord pocket. Hang the top corners of the screen first threading the cable ties through the screen’s corner grommets loosely. Wait to tighten.
- Thread additional cable ties loosely through the grommets across the top for the rest of the screen, keeping the ladder on top of the Shock Cord pocket and making sure the screen stays level and centered within the frame. (See picture below)
- Cable-tie the bottom corners tight.
- Tighten the top cable ties so they hang vertically and the screen is centered and level with the top edge.
- Attach the sides of the screen to the frame by stringing 3/16” diameter and 10” long stretch cords through screen grommets and hooking them on the Angle Iron slots. Adjust the screen so it is centered and tight. Do not over tighten; this will make your screen a trampoline for the golf ball. (See picture below)
- Screw ¾” x 1 1/2” Eyelet into the front of each Side Frame as close to the ground as possible to attach the Shock Cord to each side of the frame. (See picture below)
- Thread a tape measure through the bottom Shock Cord screen pocket from end to end. Tie the cord to the tape measure. Retract the tape measure to thread the cord through the screen. Tie off both ends of the cord into the eyelets. This will help minimize bounce back and impact sound. (See picture below)
- Starting at the top, install Side Gap Pads by attaching them to the Velcro on the front of each Side Frame and the HiQ Screen edges. Apply pressure to ensure the pads are attached to the Velcro. This will prevent gaps and keep balls from getting through your screen and damaging your room.
- Install the Top Gap Pad to the Top Frame and to the HiQ screen Velcro, overlapping the Side Gap Pads. Cut a strip of Velcro twice the width of your Top Gap pad. Remove the tape backing and fold it in half and connect the ends. Do this at least four times. Place two strips in the top right and left corners between the Top Gap Pad and the Side Gap Pads to secure them together and to provide a tight fit and a clean look.
- Attach the Top Frame Pad and its rear Hook Velcro to the edge of the Top Gap Pad. The Top Frame Pad will sit snuggly next to the Side Frame Pads that run floor to ceiling. Be sure the Frame Pad sits snuggly in all corners and covers the frame. Attach the Side Frame Pads to the exterior edge of the Gap Pads starting with the top just under the Top Frame Pad and working your way to the bottom. The Frame Pads will protect your frame from ball strike damage and users from ball ricochets off the frame. (See picture below)
Your Frame build and screen installation is now complete. If you prefer a hassle-free option, consider Ace Indoor Golf's design service. For a fee of $600, they'll take your measurements and spec out the perfect simulator space. With these guidelines, you'll be well on your way to constructing a custom golf simulator screen tailored to your space and needs. Ace will also provide custom golf simulator design and installation anywhere in the United States if you purchase your components through Ace. The fee is $4,500 and includes design, 3D Cad drawings, simulator and enclosure installation, product training, and support.