Part 3: How To Build A Golf Simulator Enclosure

How to Build A Golf Simulator Enclosure. 

By Jay Hubbard 7-20-2024

Do you want a DIY golf simulator enclosure but don’t know how to build it? This guide will walk you through the steps for building an enclosure to protect your room from poorly struck golf balls. This is a three-part article series.  

1. How to measure for your golf simulator screen and pads.
2. How to build a golf simulator frame and attach a screen.
3. And this article addresses how to build a golf simulator enclosure.

First, you need to be familiar with key terms. Every golf simulator has a screen (1), enclosure (2), launch monitor (3), hitting mat (4), gap pads that fill the gaps between the screen and the frame (5), frame pads that protect the frame and the golfer from ricochet (6), and a simulator frame and projector (Not shown below).

Before building your enclosure, complete any necessary electrical wiring.

1. Make sure what is behind your walls and ceiling with stud and metal finders.
2. Using the Projector Central Calculator and your Aspect ratio, identify the position of your projector. Be sure it is out of the way and will not be hit by taller golfers or longer clubs. Also, be sure the projector's location will not cast shadows from golfers or the enclosure.
3. When running the conduit, you want your electric and HDMI located between the screen and the projector so they cannot be seen by the golfer standing on a hitting mat. It is suggested that you hire a professional electrician to run your wiring and conduit to be sure everything is up to code and to prevent electrical fires.

For a fee of $600, they'll take your measurements and spec out the perfect simulator space. With these guidelines, you'll be well on your way to constructing a custom golf simulator screen tailored to your space and needs. Ace will also provide custom golf simulator design and installation anywhere in the United States if you purchase your components through Ace. The fee is $4,500 and includes design, 3D Cad drawings, simulator and enclosure installation, product training, and support.

A. Install A Subfloor
A golf simulator enclosure has side walls, a rear wall, a floor, and a top that prevents golf balls from escaping your hitting area and hitting walls and ceilings. At Ace, we lay a subfloor down before starting the enclosure using 3/4” Tatami 2’ x 2’ padded tiles. The tiles come in boxes of 25 and can be placed on the floor without adhesive.

1. Start by laying a tile in a corner opposite the screen and work your way to the other corner opposite the screen to complete your first row. Be sure the arrows on the back of the tiles point in the same direction.
2. For the last tile in the row, measure the distance from the wall to the last tile and transfer those measurements to the back of the tile. Then, using a box cutter, a sharp blade and a straight edge, cut the tile to fit.
3. Work row-by-row past the screen frame all the way to the rear wall and repeat step 2.

At this point, you can add turf on top, cut in holes for a putting green and a shallow putting cup, pin flags, or move on to install your enclosure and add the turf later. See this article on how to install a golf simulator putting green.

B. Install Your Enclosure
You can create your enclosure by hanging side curtains, building 2x4 side walls and ceilings with plywood or drywall, or using your existing walls and ceiling and attaching golf simulator wall tiles. You can also purchase netting for the top of your enclosure. The enclosure wall should be around 8’ in depth. The height should be set at what you and your guest can comfortably swing a golf club. A height between 10’ and 11’ is standard, and the width can be anywhere from 8’ or more.

Option 1: Using Curtains for Your Enclosure Sides:

1. Ace’s Standard Golf Simulator Curtain kit comes with a standard 9’ 7” tall x 8’ wide partial blackout curtain. Also available is the Ace Premium Custom-size golf simulator curtain. The standard curtain kit comes with everything you need to hang your curtain: an 8’ galvanized steel track that screws into the ceiling, two valences to cover the outside and inside of the track and top of the curtain, two steel track end stops, nine nylon rollers with ½ hooks, and 25 yards of Velcro to attach the curtain to your screen gap pads.
2. Start by installing the curtain track or strut channel on the ceiling. Measure 1.5” from the outer edge of the Side Frame and mark the ceiling. Next, measure 8’ from that and mark the ceiling. Snap a Chalk line between the two marks and using a stud finder, check for studs.
3. Hold the track on the ceiling with two people, and use a pencil to mark your hole locations. Using a 5/16” x 4” structural screw or 5/16” x 4” x 1/4” toggle bolt, if no stud is available, attach the track to the ceiling. Repeat if using curtains on both sides.
4. Thread four nylon rollers into each track and attach one end cap on each side.
5. Attach Sticky Back Hook Velcro to each side of the track and then attach a Valence to each side of the track.
6. Hang the curtain on the Nylon Trolly hooks. Repeat if using a curtain on both sides.

Option 2: Using Golf Simulator Wall Tiles for Your Enclosure Sides:

1. Estimate the material you need based on your desired enclosure width, height, and 8’ depth. That will typically be five rows vertically and horizontally of Ace 2’ x 2’ Golf Simulator wall and ceiling tiles, requiring three tubes of adhesive glue.
2. Be sure the wall is dust-free so the tile and adhesive will adhere.
3. You will want a 1.5” gap between the tiles and the Side and Top Frame. Measure 1.5” out from the sides and ceiling at the top and bottom of the Side Frame and mark the wall and ceiling with a pencil. Snap a Chalk line on both sides and the ceiling. Now, measure eight feet from your Chalk line on the ceiling. Do the same for each side of your golf simulator enclosure. Make sure your lines are square, and the ceiling and floors are square. If the room isn’t square, cut the tiles at the top by the ceiling, not the bottom by the floor. It will be less noticeable.
4. Tile the side walls first, starting with the bottom edge furthest from the screen. Flip the tile over, locate the arrow, and be sure all of your tile’s arrows point in the same direction, towards the screen. Add adhesive to the back of the tile by making a square about 1.5” from the tile edge and filling in the middle of the tile with a zig-zag pattern (See Photo Below).
   
   
   
5. Place the first tile on the ground-level side wall with the outer edge on your snap line. Make sure the tile is square. You have about 5 minutes to adjust the tiles. Check each tile to be sure the color looks right, and discard any tiles that don’t match. Place the next tile above the first tile and work vertically, pushing the seams together and checking to make sure the top is level and square. Use a handheld Carpet Seam Roller with teeth and run it over the seam and the rest of the tile to be sure the adhesive is pressed firmly, and air bubbles are removed. Install three tiles vertically, place the next tile on the wall at floor level, and repeat the above procedure (See photo below).
   
   
   
6. If you have electric outlets to work around, measure carefully and mark the dimensions on the back of the tile. Then, using a sharp cutting tool, cut out the required size. Be sure to change your blades often for the best result. You should be able to cut the tile in one to two passes. Place the tile on the wall without adhesive to check for a good fit. Once the proper fit is cut, glue the tile and roll it with the Carpet roller (See Photo Below).
   
   
   
7. Complete the first five vertical rows except for the last tile by the screen for each row.
8. For the last tiles by the screen, measure the distance from the tile edge bottom and top edge to your chalk line. Turn a tile over and mark the measurement on the back of the tile, and using a straight edge, draw a line on the back of the tile. Now, cut the tile with a box cutter and straight edge (See photo below). Test for fit, then add adhesive to the back of the tile. Do the same for each of the four other rows. Repeat this on the other side of the wall, if necessary.
   
   
9. Tiling the ceiling is the trickiest part. If the front row isn't straight, your tiles will look bad. Starting on your Chalk line by the wall, place a tile with adhesive and check to be sure it is square. Place your second tile along the same Chalk line, make sure it is square, and then roll it and the seam with your carpet roller. Place tiles until you reach the other side wall (See photo below).
   
   
   
10. For the last tile in the first row on the ceiling, measure the distance from the tile to the corner of the ceiling and mark those dimensions on the tile. Using a straight edge, draw your cutting line. Then, using a box cutter and a straight edge, cut the tile and test it for fit. Once you have a good fit, add adhesive to the back of the tile and adhere it to the ceiling, rolling it with the Carpet Roller. Repeat for each row to the screen, being sure to leave a 1.5” gap between the tiles and the screen frame on the ceiling. (See Photo Below)
11. For the last tile by the screen, repeat previous step 8 above.
    
    
    
12. If You Have An Open Ceiling That Cannot Be Tiled. Purchase a ceiling net from Ace that is the width and depth of your enclosure plus 2”. The Net has Hook Velcro on the underside that will attach to your enclosure’s looping on the Gap Pad. The last step is to attach the next to the sides of the enclosure. To do this see below.
    
    
    

You now have your DIY dream golf simulator, and are ready to play!